Saturday, November 15, 2008

Luxor Today

Luxor is considered the hassling capital of Egypt. Every single person on the street made a comment to me as I walked by. Most of the comments were sale pitches in British accents.

The regular ones:
"Hi, how are you. Take a look at my store"
"Sir, where are you from"
"Come in, you can look for free"
When I didn't respond:
"Why don't you respond to me sir. Was breakfast bad?"
"Sir, please. I just want to talk."
When they just wanted to play with me:
"You lost something... my heart"
"Your water is spilling. Look. Look. Look. Made you look."
Walking with girls:
"You are a very lucky man"
"You are a lucky man to have three wives. Would you consider selling one for some camels?"

85% of Luxor's economy comes from tourism, according to word on the street (and confirmed with my own eyes). These people's well being is entirely based on money coming from foreigners, and my guess is these people are tired of the foreigners ignorance of the modern culture. People come to Luxor to see "ancient Egypt" and "the exotic Middle East" but that's not a reality. It's awesome to see the Valley of the Kings, the Tomb of Queen Hatshepsut, the Temple of Luxor and Carnak and many others, but most of the tourists don't really care about the people in the town. Furthermore, the tourists look for belly dancing shows or participate in orientalist parties where the men where jalabeas and the women whatever stereotypical outfits that you might expect Jasmine from Aladdin to wear. There is no reason for these tourists to care about the people of Luxor any more than any other random city or town in the world, but the fact that tourists come to Luxor without a sensitivity for the culture and people (this is my opinion on the subject) aggravates the locals and leads them into this backlash of hassling -- especially because it sometimes works to get them to buy stuff. 

There was this one great restaurant that is making a killing off the hassling. At Oasis, all the waiters speak perfect english, there's burgers on the menu,  and outside their door they have a sign that says, "Feeling homicidal, come in and enjoy a hassle free meal."



And without further ado, the good old days when this place was called Thebes...

In order of appearance: Temple of Carnak, Valley of the Kings, Close up in the Valley of the Kings before entering a tomb, Tomb of Queen Hatshepsut, Temple of Luxor